A feast of family traditions

Roberto and Maria Ulas toast the festive season.188201

For Maria and Roberto Ulas Christmas is a time of family, food and paying homage to the ancient cultural traditions of their ancestors as NARELLE COULTER discovered.

Maria and Roberto come from Greek and Armenian families respectively, which means lots of love, lots of laughter and lots and lots of food.

Roberto is a master jeweller who has his own manufacturing business, TWM co. The couple also own Artelia Jewellery at Fountain Gate of which Maria is creative director and lead designer.

The couple cheerfully admit they “go over the top“ at Christmas.

Festivities start on 1 December when Maria, Roberto and children Zac, 9, and Cienna, 7, decorate their “enormous“tree and extends through to 6 January, which is when Armenians celebrate Christmas according to the Orthodox calendar.

“It’s a wonderful family event when the tree goes up,” Maria said of the tree that is just under 3 metres tall.

“We got the tree 14 years ago. We have to move furniture to put it up.”

The family collaborates on a different colour scheme each year. This year the tree is a shimmering picture of pink, silver and green.

Stockings are hung above the fireplace and filled with chocolates rather than gifts.

“The kids love it. Christmas goes on for two months, “said Roberto, laughing.

This year Maria wasn’t going to hang a stocking for the family’s aging Samoyed, Sacha, until Cienna insisted.

On Christmas Day the family will go to church before gathering with Maria’s relatives for a traditional Greek feast.

“Mum is one of eight children so we have a massive gathering, “Maria explained.

“We usually have 40 to 50 people there on Christmas Day. There are so many of us we have to have two sittings, one at lunch and another at dinner.”

The extended clan will feast on lamb slow roasted on a spit, homemade sausages, chorizo and other Mediterranean favourites like moussaka and dolmathakias.

“It is wonderful. Everything is cooked with love. “

For the Armenian community New Year’s Eve is when family gathers to share food, welcome Father Christmas and give gifts at midnight.

“It is the end of the year so we honour that, “explained Roberto, who was 11 when his family came to Australia from Turkey.

“At first it was a bit confusing when Santa came on 25 December. As kids we were used to presents on New Year’s Eve“he laughed.

The most significant date on the Armenia Christmas calendar is 6 January when the Apostolic Church celebrates the feast of the birth and baptism of Jesus Christ.

Melbourne’s Armenian community gather at the only church dedicated to the faith in Surrey Hills.

It is an important time for Roberto.

“As Orthodox Christians Christmas is a reminder of our faith. It is a good opportunity to talk to the children about religion and not feel like we are forcing it on them,” he said.

Food is a constant theme when Maria and Roberto talk about the festive season.

Maria’s mother makes traditional Greek Christmas biscuits in the shape of a crescent moon dusting them with icing sugar. Maria herself loves to bake generous quantities of shortbread to share with family, friends and Artelia customers.

“She makes so much shortbread its ridiculous, “said Roberto affectionately.

“Her shortbread is very good, I’ll vouch for that.”

“It’s an event, “added Maria. “My mum comes over and we make shortbread together.“

Another Greek tradition is making green walnut liqueur or nocino at Christmas. Maria buys 20 kilograms of green walnuts which are mixed with sugar and spices and left to ferment in big glass jars.

“It is our version of eggnog with lots of cinnamon and spice, “explained Maria

“We also add a bit of ozo and vodka. “

Maria was born in Greece. Her parents came to Australia when she was 3 months old and she returned as a six year old.

“I remember it was freezing. We lived in my dad’s village in the mountains. Roads could be closed for a month because of the snow. I still remember the smell of the burning wood coming out of the chimneys.

“When we came to Australia I was confused because it was so hot.”

As crowds flood into Fountain Gate over the festive season and continue to throng through the doors for the post-Christmas sales, Maria and Roberto are adamant that they carve out time to share the magic of Christmas with their children.

“I don’t want to wake up one day and the kids are 18. They will never be seven and nine again. It’s a wonderful time, “said Roberto.